How to make a "fitted' bed spread

Measurements and fabric estimate for fitted spread

When the bedroom is completed I will add a picture of the dressed bed here.  
First you must get accurate measurements of :
     The Top of the Mattress- width and length
         If the top is rounded like on a pillow top mattress, you may want to mark where you measure with a straight pin on each side and top and bottom.
      Next measure the length of the sides and bottom.   If you marked with a straight pin, measure from the pin to where you want the spread to end.  If there is to be no dust skirt, to the floor.  If there is to be a dust skirt plan at least 4" below the top of the box spring.  As a double check I also like to note the measurement from top to where the spread will end and the same way across.  The two measurements for each direction should add up to this one.  If you look at my notes you will see that I forgot to get a measurement for the width of the top of the mattress, but did get a total measurement.  By deducting the length of the two side pieces I was able to determine what width to make the top without returning to the clients house.

Make a clear drawing and put your measurements on it.  

This spread is velvet.  It is important when working with velvet to be sure the knap is going the direction you plan.  On a spread I always face the knap so that when you rub your hand down the bed top toward the bottom the knap is laid down.  Because I did not want seams on the side pieces and to match the knap  I cut them lengthwise off the fabric. After looking carefully at the velvet I determined to cut the bottom the same way to avoid seams there as well.

Using a framing square I first made certain that the end coming off the bolt was square.  Next I measured up the roll to the finish length I wanted.
I added 1/2 seam allowance for the bottom and about 4" to the top.  Often times after the piece is made the top needs to be re-squared and you will need seam allowance for the top as well.

Since the top measurement is wider than the fabric width, it was necessary to cut another length of the fabric.  I prefer to be extra cautious when cutting the pieces to be added to the center piece.  To get an idea how wide they need to be deduct the width of the fabric from the planed finish width of the top piece.  You will need to add 1 1/2" seam allowance to both strips.  I usually get the measurement and add 3" to it.  Also it is good to cut the piece a few inches longer than the first piece to allow for shifting when you sew.   Pin the pieces face to face and sew together with a small stitch( this fabric has a 100,000 double rub rating and I expect this spread to last a good 25 or more years) .  I don't want the stitches to start to loosen before that time.  With velvet make sure the knap is in the right direction as well.  Once sewn together I fold it double, pin it seam on top of seam, divide the finish width in half add 1/2" seam allowance measure out from the center fold and mark the edge.  I then mark and cut off the excess.

Cut and stitch together lining in the same fashion to the same exact dimensions.  Lay the lining aside
The excess on each side has been marked and is ready to be cut off
bottom corners are marked for rounding

The mattress corners  are never square so round them as shown here.

Trim cording is added to top piece.
In this case I am finishing the top edge with a roped cord.  When sewing a lipped cord, always 
place the cord so the part where the lip is sewn on is next to your zipper foot.  The lip will be 1/2" wide.  Sew tight against the cord. 

Lay the top piece aside with it's lining.

Now it is time to make the two side pieces and the bottom piece.

From the piece cut to seam on to the top, cut your side pieces and if possible the bottom.  In this case I only had enough for sides and had to cut off the bolt for the bottom.  Cut the side pieces the finish width as shown on your diagram + 4". 
Cut the lining the same top to bottom and the length of the fabric less 4".  Pin the ends together and sew.  Lay the pieces flat.  You should have 1 1/2"
of fabric folding over fabric on each end.  Pin the bottom(if velvet be sure to check the direction of the knap and select the bottom so the knap will be going in the correct direction).  Sew the bottom with a 1/2" seam.  Turn right side out.     Press and run a 1/4" seam along the top of each piece.

Ends sewn ready for bottom to be sewn
Panel turned ready for top 1/4" seam

Lay side and bottom pieces face to face on the unlined center piece.  Pin in place and attach with a 1/2" seam.

Corner pieces ready to be added

Make two panels using the same technique as with the side and bottom panels.  These should be 1" shorter than the other panels and about 8" wide.

Center them on the corners, pin and attach with a 1/2'" seam on top of the bottom and side panels.

Final lining being prepared for sewing

Now, retrieve the large lining made early on.

Put the spread on the table face down.

Fold both side pieces, bottom piece and corner pieces on to the middle piece.  It is a good idea to pin the corner pieces to the side and bottom panel.  Pinning them helps keep you from accidentally stitching them into your lining seam.

Place the lining on top of all of this and pin it
all around the edges except at the top.  Attach
Spread after turning
lining with a 1/2' seam.  When sewing run through the machine with the lining down so you can sew over the previous seam.

Turn so the lining is out.  By doing it this way you have no exposed seams on the underside of your spread.  Turn any excess fabric and lining under so the top is even and straight.  Top stitch it closed 1/4" from the edge.


I hope you found this to be useful.

Bill Gantt